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The Siren - 5.11d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Dave Rubine, Will Chen
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
2
10 draws
115
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the best 5.11 face climbs at Phantom Spires. Steep, sustained, and technical from bottom to top with a powerful crux roof high. Can Toprope with a 70 meter rope if you extend anchor with long slings. If you stip at first anchor climb is 5.11a. -McNamara

Submitted by: retro67 on 2009-10-03
Last Modified: 2010-02-04
Views: 283
Route ID: 101855

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A nice one.

There is a good slot for a nut for the belay. Insecure climbing for the first bolt--a small cam might help. Afterward, a hard move between first and second bolt. A yellow alien is handy above this. Third bolt does not inspire confidence. Mid to hard 11 between third and fourth bolt. More hard 10 to first anchor. Crux move over roof requires an odd body tension move--probably significantly harder than grade. Above are two bolts and a runout. Right is thin and reachy 5.11, left is very thin 10 + according to my partner.

Added: 2013-12-05