Skip to Content
Search for
Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Harding's Other Chimney

< Previous | Next >

Harding's Other Chimney - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Warren Harding
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams .4-4" and optional large piece (7-12") if you skip clipping the bolts
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

Fun, Short, Historic climb. Start any way you choose, and funnel your way into the chimney. Plenty of small knobs for face holds if chimneying isn't your thing (yet). Gear progressively gets larger as you go up and when it reaches the 7-12" range you can VERY EASILY reach two bolts from Candyass. (you are almost climbing over them) Before you clip them, just remember Harding didn't use the bolts or any large gear.

Descent Options:

lower off Candyland anchors or set top rope on any of the other routes

Submitted by: evanwish on 2009-06-19
Views: 427
Route ID: 100442

Record Ascent Add Photo Add to Hit List Bookmark

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: retro67 on 2009-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hardings Other Chimney

Mike L. lead.

Added: 2009-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: feline143 on 2009-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Did only Unnamed 5.6 start

For whatever reason this website won't let me add a route for Middle Spire. The route that's missing is the Unnamed 5.6 (SuperTopo guide) that can be used to get up to Harding's Other Chimney. This climb ascends the double cracks in the open book below the chimney. Use the bolts left of chimney for to anchor/rappel.

Added: 2009-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars short

short, but fun route.
Didn't touch the two bolts and used big cam instead


the very top of the chimney has a very extremely loose block so don't get tempted to use it (it deceptively looks like a GREAT handhold).



Added: 2009-06-20