In the tradition of the older spires routes, another true sandbag. For me, about as hard as red zinger. For the roof, yellow and green aliens. A tough move right at the bottom of the corner below the roof.
I got good holds in the dihedral, but I also have very little fingers. I redpointed this one so I knew that if I was going to send, I'd need to place less gear on the roof; I placed a million pieces in the roof on my first attempt and pumped off it. Second time, I only placed two and got it. Beautiful, I love a good roof climb.
The first half of the first pitch is crap but warms up real good in the dihedral. Not terrably hard, but some good, steep no hands stemming brings you to a great rest under the roof traverse. The traverse under the roof isn't too bad as there are good smears for the feet and good locker fingerlocks.
Was gunning for the onsight so i only placed as far out from the corner rest as i could then shot the roof to the anchors. I don't really recommend this since i was staring at a pretty bad swing into the corner... i tried from a couple of stances near the end of the roof to protect but found it insecure so just finished it off. the thought of impact is what kept me on... not the best way to send. oh well... cool route and definately lives up to its name.