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Blue Velvet - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
G
3
upper pitches--cams: 1 ea. 1-2" first pitch--9 draws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

"If you climb all three pitches, this route is almost as good as Bolee Gold. Most climbers just do the first pitch because the second and third pitches are bold. On the first pitch, a tricky start leads to sustained 5.9 and 5.10 moves. The bolts are far enough apart to get your attention. Toprope the first pitch (barely!) with a 60 meter rope but only if the belayer moves up the ramp at the start of Scheister (be careful!)." ~McNamara

Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2006-08-17
Views: 787
Route ID: 49477

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2010-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lead first pitch

Just getting off the ground took me a while since I did not want to commit to the crimpy/cruxy start. Second and Third Bolts were the most difficult to get to since it was thin, and foot holds were almost non-existent. Past the third bolt the climb was excellent. Nice face climbing to the finish. Also, at the top it was a little bit run out but the climb eases a lot.

Added: 2010-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: aerili on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sustained

Granite is bomber. Bolt placement is kinda whacko 3-4 bolts up--if you don't traverse way right from them at this point, the climb goes into the 11 range. I fell off the starting move once, then re-composed and did the 11 variation clean. Best to lead/TR with a 70 m rope.

Added: 2010-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good 1st pitch

I wouldn't put off climbing the upper pitches because of any sort of run out. I'd put off climbing them because they just plain suck.

The first pitch is good, varied and interesting. The second pitch is contrived, putting you within reaching distance of Schister and keeping you to the left of 5.6 climbing 8ft to the right. The run out section was like 15ft to 20ft of 5.5 jug hauling. The last pitch climbed a fun little (again contrived) arete, to easy slab then up a short section of jug hauling to the top. The route crosses over the last pitch of Hardings Chimney and Scheister so best to avoid it if others are on those routes as you'll cause a total junk show. Better yet, just bail from the first pitch, you won't be missing anything.

Added: 2010-02-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2010-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Lead it this time.

Good, close bolts on first pitch. Fun. Second pitch a bit contrived. On the second pitch, it make sense to go right, but the bolts are on the left. Third pitch is better with a neat move over a small roof and an arete. I give it a PG13 for the 5.8 runout after the first bolt on the second pitch.

Added: 2010-02-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: retro67 on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Blue Velvet

Nice polished smearing and crimping. Toproped first pitch only after rapping Hardings Chimney. Planning to lead this one next opportunity.

Added: 2009-08-02

... Read all 9 ascent notes