"If you climb all three pitches, this route is almost as good as Bolee Gold. Most climbers just do the first pitch because the second and third pitches are bold. On the first pitch, a tricky start leads to sustained 5.9 and 5.10 moves. The bolts are far enough apart to get your attention. Toprope the first pitch (barely!) with a 60 meter rope but only if the belayer moves up the ramp at the start of Scheister (be careful!)." ~McNamara
Just getting off the ground took me a while since I did not want to commit to the crimpy/cruxy start. Second and Third Bolts were the most difficult to get to since it was thin, and foot holds were almost non-existent. Past the third bolt the climb was excellent. Nice face climbing to the finish. Also, at the top it was a little bit run out but the climb eases a lot.
Granite is bomber. Bolt placement is kinda whacko 3-4 bolts up--if you don't traverse way right from them at this point, the climb goes into the 11 range. I fell off the starting move once, then re-composed and did the 11 variation clean. Best to lead/TR with a 70 m rope.
I wouldn't put off climbing the upper pitches because of any sort of run out. I'd put off climbing them because they just plain suck.
The first pitch is good, varied and interesting. The second pitch is contrived, putting you within reaching distance of Schister and keeping you to the left of 5.6 climbing 8ft to the right. The run out section was like 15ft to 20ft of 5.5 jug hauling. The last pitch climbed a fun little (again contrived) arete, to easy slab then up a short section of jug hauling to the top. The route crosses over the last pitch of Hardings Chimney and Scheister so best to avoid it if others are on those routes as you'll cause a total junk show. Better yet, just bail from the first pitch, you won't be missing anything.
Good, close bolts on first pitch. Fun. Second pitch a bit contrived. On the second pitch, it make sense to go right, but the bolts are on the left. Third pitch is better with a neat move over a small roof and an arete. I give it a PG13 for the 5.8 runout after the first bolt on the second pitch.