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Morticia - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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cams: 1 ea .4-2.5" 5 draws for upper slab to a two bolt belay
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.20/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 3.17/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

Starts as crack to a roof, go right and up to a slabby section that feels pretty hard. The climb is on the east side, go uphill, climber's right of the fracture to a corridor that leads to a huge roof. The climb is on the right side of the corridor. "A fun mixture of crack and face that is more mental than physical. The first crux comes moving left around a roof (stay low and left). The second crux comes a few bolts up on the face. You can barely toprope this climb with a 60 meter rope but the belayer may need to walk up the gully a little ways." ~McNamara

Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2006-08-17
Views: 878
Route ID: 68361

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2011-01-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice mixed route

Easy crack leads to the roof where there are several abandoned small nuts. Roof is not bad at all, I went left and It worked out for me. The face part had good knobs for almost every move

Added: 2011-01-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice

A really easy crack leads to a small roof which is easy to negociate with bomber gear. Above that is a slab with decent knobs and bolts about every 8 to 10 feet with the crux bolts being about 4ft apart. Not run out in any way and a great lead for someone wanting to break into more traditional face climbing.

Added: 2010-02-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: retro67 on 2009-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Morticia

Nice mix. McNamara says stay low and left around roof. Mike and I both went straight up and over, and still the crux seemed to be on the bulging part of the face.

Added: 2009-09-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: robynladin on 2008-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool

overall, good variety of climbing... mini roof sketched me out

Added: 2008-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2007-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Puts into check

The route will make any 9 leader say "shit".

Added: 2008-02-19

... Read all 9 ascent notes