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Scheister - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Rock
3
cams: 1 each .6-1", 2 each 1.25-4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.12/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.78/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

climb some books to the riht of the fang then squeez chimney to lege then up a left facing liback finger crack "This route rivals Harding's Chimney in quality and difficulty. The crux first pitch starts with steep broken rock (stem when possible) before entering a smooth flared chimney. Stay outside (where the chimney is wider) and occasionally reach in to place gear. This pitch protects better than Harding's Chimney but is still only recommended for confident 5.7 leaders. The second pitch has a great mixture of 5.7 hand jams and lieback moves and ends at a notch. From here, climb the third pitch of Harding's Chimney to the middle summit. Walk off to descend." ~McNamara

Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2006-08-17
Views: 1665
Route ID: 49476

16 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: aerili on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Did standard p3 this time

First did this in April and did a p3 variation finish since we did not know where to go. This time I led p1 (no #4 with me-- whoops), Malieka led p2, and Karsten led standard p3. Crazy, grunty finish. I agree, old school 5.7 and not for the fledgling .7 leader! Yosemite-esque climbing.

Added: 2010-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2009-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Scheister

Mike L. led 2nd. pitch.

Added: 2009-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: chizoad on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Chimney...

First trad experience, and the chimney was grunty. Sweet lieback on the 2nd pitch. Route has a little bit of everything, including impressive exposure when you come out of the tunnel.

Added: 2009-01-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ladyjay on 2008-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Remember your pro...

Got a little ballsy on the chimney and set a #3 way low and ran it out to the squeeze/crux. Got a #2 in and worked my way up. Pitches 2, 3 are classic. Great climb. Chimney is cake with a #3 and #4 and a pretty creepy when you've got nothing. Lesson learned.

Added: 2008-04-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: oliverkollar on 2008-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Physical and Awkward

The first pitch is the business, the difficulty eases on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Old school and fun.....

Added: 2008-04-08

... Read all 16 ascent notes