Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : East Face : Scheister
Previous
Scheister - 5.7
Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
3
cams: 1 each .6-1", 2 each 1.25-4"
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
climb some books to the riht of the fang then squeez chimney to lege then up a left facing liback finger crack "This route rivals Harding's Chimney in quality and difficulty. The crux first pitch starts with steep broken rock (stem when possible) before entering a smooth flared chimney. Stay outside (where the chimney is wider) and occasionally reach in to place gear. This pitch protects better than Harding's Chimney but is still only recommended for confident 5.7 leaders. The second pitch has a great mixture of 5.7 hand jams and lieback moves and ends at a notch. From here, climb the third pitch of Harding's Chimney to the middle summit. Walk off to descend." ~McNamara
Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2006-08-17
Views: 1354
Route ID: 49476
16 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 16 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
Did standard p3 this time
First did this in April and did a p3 variation finish since we did not know where to go. This time I led p1 (no #4 with me-- whoops), Malieka led p2, and Karsten led standard p3. Crazy, grunty finish. I agree, old school 5.7 and not for the fledgling .7 leader! Yosemite-esque climbing.
Added: 2010-11-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Scheister
Mike L. led 2nd. pitch.
Added: 2009-08-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
Chimney...
First trad experience, and the chimney was grunty. Sweet lieback on the 2nd pitch. Route has a little bit of everything, including impressive exposure when you come out of the tunnel.
Added: 2009-01-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Remember your pro...
Got a little ballsy on the chimney and set a #3 way low and ran it out to the squeeze/crux. Got a #2 in and worked my way up. Pitches 2, 3 are classic. Great climb. Chimney is cake with a #3 and #4 and a pretty creepy when you've got nothing. Lesson learned.
Added: 2008-04-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Physical and Awkward
The first pitch is the business, the difficulty eases on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Old school and fun.....
Added: 2008-04-08
