Skip to Content

Bewilderbeast 11d(?) - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Aidan Maguire
Rock (Trad)
G
1
9 Bolts (?) and a slung knob with second optional slung knob, plus anchor
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Spring 2007. Tr'd once to affirm viability and acertain bolt placement. Lead on first attempt. Beautiful, clean, high friction rock that was never climbed because the route doesn't reach the ground! Start up BoB until 3rd bolt is about head high. Traverse left on delicate moves about 10 feet (11c?). Head straight up cool moves past knobs. Crux starts when leaving the huge knob and the next 10 feet or so (11d?), but remains tricky after that (10+). At top a tricky very insecure move (11c?) gains the arete and then follow to the top. One can bail left to finish up Gallows Pole which is easier (but that defeats the purpose). Easy to set Tr from end of first pitch of Hardings Chimney with 60m.

Submitted by: ultraviolet on 2007-04-19
Last Modified: 2012-01-19
Views: 565
Route ID: 85180

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ultraviolet on 2007-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tricky!

Needs a second!

Added: 2007-04-19