Skip to Content

Bolee Gold - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Premier Sponsor:
Garry Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner (1977)
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Draws, Nuts 1set, Cams, few .5"-1.5"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.17/5
  Fun Factor 4.17/5

Description:

Starts just to the left of Hookers Haven and takes the most direct line up the south face. Pitch 1: Climbs a well bolted steep face that traverses slightly to the left. Good pockets and crimps on high quality rock. Skip the first set of (hanging belay) anchors and continue up to the next set about 10ft higher for a good stance. Pitch 2: Climbs up good holds to a small flake. The angle backs off after the flake and larger holds and knobs appear. Some gear can be found as well as knob tie offs between bolts. Stop at the belay anchors at a good ledge. Pitch 3: Winds its way up somewhat slabby face with smaller holds and few cracks. Some pro can be found between bolts.

Descent Options:

Rap the route with a 60m rope. Watch the ends of your rope because a 60m will use intermediate anchors as it will fall short of the belay anchors.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-01-26
Views: 964
Route ID: 91921

7 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Boz3030 on 2011-02-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars An amazing, albeit slightly scary classic!

Felt stiff, but I hear that's common for the area. We did it in 3 pitches, I led all of them, and it was a fantastic sustained line. There is some pretty loose flakes on the last pitch, forcing you to remain right on some of the same thin edges that the rest of the climb has, making that last "5.7" pitch feel pretty hard, and more runout. Reachy for me at 5'8", but just meant that I had to be a little more creative. Highly recommended, but the leader should feel solid at the grade.

Added: 2011-02-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: aerili on 2010-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Climbed with Karsten. He linked p1-2; I linked p3-4. Sustained, hard 10 moves! A few bolts up, there was a move I simply could not reach and fell off. Multiple deadpoint attempts and I finally stuck it! Would be easy to latch if you are well over 5'6". P3-4 is extremely run-out: 4 pieces in 200 feet. An amazing and wild route!

Added: 2010-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: retro67 on 2010-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars bolted gold

Blew the on-sight by back climbing the move past the roof to extend a sling to prevent rope drag. Fell there. The third pitch is the hardest. Never mind what those other guys said.

Added: 2010-02-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2009-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice and fun

The first pitch has the highest concentration of actual hard moves, second pitch has very few, and the third is cruiser. Runout areas are 5.6-5.8 tops. A must do at the loaf

Added: 2009-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c V0 WI1 A0 M1 F
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2008-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful line

good times on this sexy line.... i love runouts, they make you think

Added: 2008-11-08

... Read all 7 ascent notes