Start on Make that Move Now Baby and instead of going over the roof after the third bolt, traverse out right around it. Clip the bolt (use double runner) and keep traversing right on a small ledge to a good stance and another bolt. The route continues strait up form here. Just after the last bolt is the crux. Throw for the arete up as high as possible then climb up it to the anchors.
This route was put in on lead with all bolts drilled by hand.
The route was never scrubbed etiher, only a small brushing to critical holds was done while leading. So it may still be a bit dirty.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-07-02
Route ID: 86868
Placed 1/4 in split shaft rivets on lead then went back after I made a clean accent and replaced them with 3/8in FIXIE bolts. Broke a drill bit tip off in the hole on the 5th bolt while drilling. Placed a half sunk (5/8in deep) rivet in the hole with a spinning hanger on it and used that to lower to the ground for another drill bit. Pulled my rope, climbed back up to my high point and placed another rivet just above the botched one then pulled and filled the hole. It was all un eventfull from there until I placed the last bolt from a shity stance and barely clipped it before my legs turned to jello. I had no juice left and found myself pulling the hardest move yet. I gunned for the top in despiration only to take a whipper. About five whippers later I stuck it, clipped the chains, cleaned and lowered. After a 20 minute break and a ham sandwhich I sent it first try clean. I have much more respect for people who put up long routes on lead now. The amount of work and stress involved is staggering.