Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
TM Herbert, Burce Cooke, 1968
Cams .5-6" Nuts 1 set
Another classic Tahoe squeeze chimney. Start up the West chimney and shoot out right just before the top of the pitch into an alcove with beautifull orange lichen just under a exciting looking steep hand crack in a flairing chimney. Climb up the flareing chimney (easier than it looks) and into a bombay squeeze chimney. Place that pro up high and wiggle your way up to a huge jug, then pull your way through a short finger crack and up an easy dihedral to the top.
Walk off the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-11-18
Last Modified: 2010-02-22
Route ID: 81243
A pretty good chimney that appears a lot harder than it really is. I climbed it with 1 number 4 and a few smaller pieces and didn't even see a place where you would be able to place anything bigger. Watch out at the very top for the rope eating crack or else the top-out blows.
The first pitch is lame but goes quickly and is well worth doing for the second. Steep butt scumming with good feet, hand jams and bomber gear leads to a wild bombay chimney then finishes off with a short finger crack. Classic I say...
Oh yeah, forget what the guide says, bring a #5 BD. You won't be kicking yourself for doing so.