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TM's Deviation - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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TM Herbert, Burce Cooke, 1968
Rock (Trad)
G
2
Cams .5-6" Nuts 1 set
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Another classic Tahoe squeeze chimney. Start up the West chimney and shoot out right just before the top of the pitch into an alcove with beautifull orange lichen just under a exciting looking steep hand crack in a flairing chimney. Climb up the flareing chimney (easier than it looks) and into a bombay squeeze chimney. Place that pro up high and wiggle your way up to a huge jug, then pull your way through a short finger crack and up an easy dihedral to the top.

Descent Options:

Walk off the top.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-11-18
Last Modified: 2010-02-22
Views: 750
Route ID: 81243

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hard squeeze chimney

I am not good at chimney climbing and I am glad I did not lead it. Figured out the right move after several attempts. I will come back to lead it some day.
Great route.

Added: 2014-03-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2012-02-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good

A pretty good chimney that appears a lot harder than it really is. I climbed it with 1 number 4 and a few smaller pieces and didn't even see a place where you would be able to place anything bigger. Watch out at the very top for the rope eating crack or else the top-out blows.

Added: 2012-02-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2010-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice

Fun route with different techniques involved. I think harder than 5.9. Watch out for rope eating crack after exiting chimney over the lip.

Added: 2010-02-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2006-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Like Eeyores Enigma

The first pitch is lame but goes quickly and is well worth doing for the second. Steep butt scumming with good feet, hand jams and bomber gear leads to a wild bombay chimney then finishes off with a short finger crack. Classic I say...

Oh yeah, forget what the guide says, bring a #5 BD. You won't be kicking yourself for doing so.

Added: 2006-11-24