Bad start, bolts, clips and rock make the easiest way to the top an adventure!
Start on the right edge of the East face below the hole and move up and around the arÍte on alarming loose flakes. The rest is easy up the North side but trust nothing.
Submitted by: tecais on 2003-08-14
Route ID: 39175
This climb was a nightmare. The bolts are super sketchy. The rock is loose in many places and the way the bolts are placed will cut up your rope. The anchor at the top is rusted. There are also no chains at the top so if you rappel down, you need to place the rope through the bolts themselves.
I removed the original cord that was up there because it was brittle and sun damaged and replaced it with my stuff. A guess that's my donation to the crag. I didn't trust rappelling down just on the bolts alone. I'm not going to compromise safety for $35 bucks.
Considering the extra hike you have to make just to get up there just for an 11.C and a deadly 5.9, I don't recommend this place.
Me and 3 other SC climbers made the very first ascent of Heirloom after waiting for years for someone to finally establish the main route. -Nobody seemed interested, so we just worked away at it over a few year period. Finally, we just got tired of fooling around and just 'went for it' all the way to the top. We were very dissapointed that the rock quality wasn't all that great - hence the bolts.