Routes : North America : United States : California : Los Angeles County : Echo Cliffs : Grotto, The : Mystic River
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Mystic River - 5.8
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Pam Neal & Ben Chapman
Rock
G
1
11 bolts, 2-ring Fixe anchor
85
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Description:
Long by Grotto standards, Mystic River is located on the south side of the Grotto, 20 yards upstream from Game Boy. Mystic River climbs an inital bulge to a 5 bolt slab. Above the slab, the route steepens and stemming, liebacking, and pockets are utilzed to pass 4 bolts to ascend an awkward slot and arete section. A final headwall/bulge is passed on the left past 2 more bolts. Traverse right above the headwall to the 2-ring anchor.Descent Options:
rappell from the 2-ring FIXE anchor with a 60 meter rope.
Submitted by: rurprider on 2009-05-21
Views: 143
Route ID: 99516
4 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Great Route
Lots of diverse movements for a 5.8 route. It is a lot of fun. There is some slabby stuff, some off balance stemming, and plenty more. It is heavily bolted, especially for the first half of the route. There are 2 anchors to choose from...the spray painted ones basically along the bolt line and the shiny new ones off the bolt line more up the crack line that would take a serious traverse to get to on lead. I used the anchors on the bolt line. If you follow the bolt line, the rock quality is good and clean...if you follow the crack after it diverges from the bolt line, it gets a little chossy.
Added: 2009-10-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
New Grotto Climbs
New favorite warm-up route. Rock quality gets stellar after the initial 20 feet. Varied. Fun. Safe. Pretty long and always in the shade.
Added: 2009-09-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
First Ascent
After four days of cleaning and trundling loose blocks and choss, Mystic River was calling my name. The FA went quickly and smoothly at the end of a long day of brushing and sweeping. An excellent route, if I say so myself. :-)
Added: 2009-05-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Grotto climbs
2nd ascent. Mystic River is fun, the moves are interesting and the protection is stellar. Good exposure on good, well featured rock. A nice addition to the Grotto.
Added: 2009-05-17
