Average Rating : 2.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 70
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
6 bolts, double mussyhook anchor
Up the hill from the routes in the book. It's the first climb you get to under the tree. Sustained vertical to slab route that S's back and forth from the bolt line. Stay on route to avoid loose rock! Good footwork can make it a juggy climb. Bonus points if you don't use the tree.
Submitted by: fertical on 2010-05-29
Route ID: 104978
A fun route, more so on TR as it definitely zig-zags around the bolt line and it is still pretty chossy. On lead I zigged when I should have zagged, and had a hold shatter on me as I was about to clip the 3rd bolt. Took a nice fall. Toughest part is clipping the 2nd to last bolt if you dont have long arms. Move to the chains is fun...balancey and technical. Definitely a more technical route than other 5.10s at Gorgeous.
I'm not sure why some people dislike this route. No, it's not like the rest of Malibu. And it is chossy. But it's fun movement. And the big plus, in my opinion, is that because it's more technical and less physically taxing, it can be a decent end to the day after trashing yourself on the more overhung sections of the crag.