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Monkey Sang, Monkey Do - 5.11d popular

Average Rating = 4.27/5 Average Rating : 4.27 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 80
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.29/5
  Fun Factor 4.86/5

Description:

Really fun route with a lunge at the crux. The hold is better than it looks. Then go up over the bulge using the crack and you're in the barrel. The final overhang has good holds all you have to do is hang on.

Submitted by: matttheripper on 2009-06-20
Last Modified: 2010-10-27
Views: 2151
Route ID: 36482

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16 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: clr288 on 2014-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Monkey Sang, Monkey Done! new

Tried this off and on through the years. Finally got it! Awesome route. Hand sequence is critical to setting up the roof crux. Aim to get the right hand in the last good pocket before the crux and then left hand crimp, right hand on the polished small block and lunge out for the right edge of the roof. Crack/flake crux above is made easier by shifting your weight to the right of the crack. Some loose critical holds...

Added: 2014-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2010-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Superb Route

The crux move is a deadpoint dyno to a good jug from a heinous gaston sidepull. Super strenuous! Tried to stay direct, but that was SUPER hard, so ended up going right to join the crack. Easy finishing moves on huge jugs. One of the best on the wall, for sure.

Added: 2010-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: rockjockrob on 2010-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sunday Stroll

A couple of attempts, both times through the crux no problem. off route to the left on the first try. straight up through the crack is the ticket.

The crux is not nearly as difficult as it looks. You have to set up for it about three moves before though. Cross your hands... trust your right foot, let it rip!

Added: 2010-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mrsuicide on 2009-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars yay, finally came back to do this. Excellent climb

Guess those years between climbing it i've improved.

Did the sideways crux move without too much drama. Had more problems on the thin layback crack.

Added: 2009-10-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars PROJECT!

Greg and I tagged this for projecting in 2008 and finally made it back for a second session. Too bad it's after my massive loss of muscle, but managed to get into the zone thanks to the teachings of Dan Alroy.

Great feet everywhere, and overhung with very sequencey pocket hand moves. The trick is to look ahead and commit to your feet. The more you hesitate the more you're going to wear yourself out holding yourself against the wall with the arms. Crux is about 40 feet up when hands get thin. There is a clear sequence to be had: right hand crimp (deep breath and commit), left hand crimp (more committment), up to the ledge (whew), and then pocket. I've never been good at committment, so I didn't get past it. Have to go back... good thing I live close.

Added: 2009-08-18

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