Monkey Sang, Monkey Do - 5.11d popular

The crux move is a deadpoint dyno to a good jug from a heinous gaston sidepull. Super strenuous! Tried to stay direct, but that was SUPER hard, so ended up going right to join the crack. Easy finishing moves on huge jugs. One of the best on the wall, for sure.

A couple of attempts, both times through the crux no problem. off route to the left on the first try. straight up through the crack is the ticket.

The crux is not nearly as difficult as it looks. You have to set up for it about three moves before though. Cross your hands... trust your right foot, let it rip!

Guess those years between climbing it i've improved.

Did the sideways crux move without too much drama. Had more problems on the thin layback crack.

Greg and I tagged this for projecting in 2008 and finally made it back for a second session. Too bad it's after my massive loss of muscle, but managed to get into the zone thanks to the teachings of Dan Alroy.

Great feet everywhere, and overhung with very sequencey pocket hand moves. The trick is to look ahead and commit to your feet. The more you hesitate the more you're going to wear yourself out holding yourself against the wall with the arms. Crux is about 40 feet up when hands get thin. There is a clear sequence to be had: right hand crimp (deep breath and commit), left hand crimp (more committment), up to the ledge (whew), and then pocket. I've never been good at committment, so I didn't get past it. Have to go back... good thing I live close.

worked it about 8 times before i sent this route. the lunge crux is a fun fun crux....once you figure it out though, it isn't all that bad and the rest of the route is quite easy. hardest part of this route is the length.... poor judge of distance but i would say it is around 80-90' long....absolutely loved the climb though!!! for a TR route, i would say the moves are no harder than 11a/b....always fun to climb this one!!!!