Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

Chimps Ahoy!! - 5.10b popular

Average Rating = 3.55/5 Average Rating : 3.55 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Rock
8 bolts to double chains/steel biners
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.88/5
  Scenery 3.88/5
  Fun Factor 4.12/5

Description:

To the left of Monkey Mayhem up the arete, great view of the Rock Pool. Start is 20ft. below and left of Oak tree ledge...on top of a boulder. Clip 2 bolts(10b) then use runner on 3rd(or skip for unwanted drag) then over roof. Up arete to chains...rock can be loose. Belay the follower from ledge at base of Monkey Mayhem for less rope drag. F.A. Mar '06

Submitted by: papa_eos on 2006-10-15
Views: 674
Route ID: 80652

Most Recent Photos

11 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mgetlin on 2009-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route, sucks to clean

Great photo op at the overhang. Bottom two bolts are a little tricky, but 5.10b seems a little soft. Probably a hard 9 or 10a??
Cleaning it sucks for those who rap down as the rope piles on a ledge making it hard to tell when you've got enough to get down, use a rope with a multicolor weave if possible so you can see your in the middle.

Fun times!

Added: 2009-09-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars long -- easil the best climb at Malibu Creek

A little bit of everything (minus a crack, and you could get that in too if you have trad gear and just move 4 feet to the right). Incredibly well protected. You start on this great slightly overhung face to a hueco ledge that required an overhead heel hook (my favorite move, ever)... and then easy (but very exposed) climb stright up the arete up to the anchor. Highly recommended.

Added: 2009-07-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gaalsent on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars meh

meh

Added: 2009-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Tradstheway on 2009-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice climb

Real nice climb...watch for tree branch on your way down, took a nasty wack to the back.

Added: 2009-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clr288 on 2008-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hard then Easy

Didnt know the rating of the route when I did it. Thought it was 5.10b/c and lo and behold it is a 5.10b. First 2 bolts is the hardest. The big overhang after the cave/ledge is tough but not too bad. Plenty to use to pull yourself up and over. If you want to avoid the big cave, you can go to the right of the overhang without much trouble but with half the fun. Top half is a cakewalk. Some serious loose rocks after the cave.

Update: April 11. Lead it and got the Red Point. First couple of moves arent too bad once you know the sequence. Above the cave, the route follows the arete very closely. I stayed 3-4 ft to the right of the bolts on my way up the arete.

Added: 2008-03-21

... Read all 11 ascent notes