Average Rating : 2.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
7 bolts to chains
To the right of "Best Laid Plans". This route traverses out right over the water then follows the diagonal finger of rock to the chains. Very fun and exposed climbing, staying to the left of the bolts drops the grade to 10a/b. Stay on the right for some pumpy 10d moves, the fun doesn't end until clipping the chains.
Clip the anchor from right to left then down climb a little to the left to clip the first of the three decent chains. The follower down climbs at the top and clips the other carabiners on the decent chains which keep the rope from going in the water when
Submitted by: papa_eos on 2008-03-16
Route ID: 89878
I have climbed this route several times before, however after the negative comments from mrsuicide I had to post. Getting to the first bolt is a little bouldery then I usually stay to the right of the bolts the rest of the way. The bulge in the middle seemed like the crux to me and also the last move before the anchors.
It seems that the "descent chains" are a necessary evil if you don't want to get your rope wet when pulling it. I miss this climb in the winter-time when it is unclimbable due to the water at the base.