Routes : North America : United States : California : Los Angeles County : Malibu Creek State Park : Planet of the Apes Wall : Monkey Sang, Monkey Do
PreviousMonkey Sang, Monkey Do - 5.11d popular
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Description:
Really fun route with a lunge at the crux. The hold is better than it looks. Then go up over the bulge using the crack and you're in the barrel. The final overhang has good holds all you have to do is hang on.
Submitted by: matttheripper on 2009-06-20
Views: 608
Route ID: 36482
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13 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 13 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
yay, finally came back to do this. Excellent climb
Guess those years between climbing it i've improved.
Did the sideways crux move without too much drama. Had more problems on the thin layback crack.
Did the sideways crux move without too much drama. Had more problems on the thin layback crack.
Added: 2009-10-04
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
PROJECT!
Greg and I tagged this for projecting in 2008 and finally made it back for a second session. Too bad it's after my massive loss of muscle, but managed to get into the zone thanks to the teachings of Dan Alroy.
Great feet everywhere, and overhung with very sequencey pocket hand moves. The trick is to look ahead and commit to your feet. The more you hesitate the more you're going to wear yourself out holding yourself against the wall with the arms. Crux is about 40 feet up when hands get thin. There is a clear sequence to be had: right hand crimp (deep breath and commit), left hand crimp (more committment), up to the ledge (whew), and then pocket. I've never been good at committment, so I didn't get past it. Have to go back... good thing I live close.
Great feet everywhere, and overhung with very sequencey pocket hand moves. The trick is to look ahead and commit to your feet. The more you hesitate the more you're going to wear yourself out holding yourself against the wall with the arms. Crux is about 40 feet up when hands get thin. There is a clear sequence to be had: right hand crimp (deep breath and commit), left hand crimp (more committment), up to the ledge (whew), and then pocket. I've never been good at committment, so I didn't get past it. Have to go back... good thing I live close.
Added: 2009-08-18
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
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11a/b seems right
worked it about 8 times before i sent this route. the lunge crux is a fun fun crux....once you figure it out though, it isn't all that bad and the rest of the route is quite easy. hardest part of this route is the length.... poor judge of distance but i would say it is around 80-90' long....absolutely loved the climb though!!! for a TR route, i would say the moves are no harder than 11a/b....always fun to climb this one!!!!
Added: 2009-07-01
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
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hard
the guide book says 5.11d
Added: 2009-06-18
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Only a 5.11b/c ?
Seems like a fun route, except I can't get the crux. The crux seems inordinately tougher than the rest of the route - I always miss on the lunge to the flake, and end up cheating to get past it after many failed attempts. Seems like the hand holds are about nothing and one has to smear with the right foot while gaston-ing and then lunge for the flake. Beta/suggestions would be most welcome.
Added: 2008-02-25
