Begin on slightly overhanging and thinning handcrack in the obvious dihedral on the SE face, passing that initial bulge and up to a small ledge, then up another thin-hand crack to the top. This same crack widens and runs across the top of formation to the backside, and would take 4-6" gear for anchor, plus a huge block that can be slung with very long webbing or with the rope itself. There are also rusty flimsy-looking bolts to climber's left, but more in-line for anchoring a TR up The G Spot.
Downclimb to climber's right, or down the squeeze chimney on the backside. If via the former, be careful; one of the downclimbing jugs is loose (the left one) and could easily break off if yanked outward.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2007-04-14
Route ID: 83055