Skip to Content

Middle Earth - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares a 3-bolt anchor & chains, with "Tethys."
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


"Middle Earth" begins 40 feet downhill (left) of "Aqua Negro" at the narrowest portion of The Canyon. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled slab. Continue up the slab and as the wall steepens work up past a bolt to a large depression with a set of double bolts on the left. After clipping the bolts move up and left from the depression around the left side of a large protruding block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. It is possible to link the climb as one long pitch, but it may be necessary to use long runners on the lower slab or back clean to reduce rope drag. While this is a fairly new route, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or the routes original name.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route or move right (south) to the anchor atop "Aqua Negro."

Submitted by: rurprider on 2011-07-10
Last Modified: 2011-07-11
Views: 581
Route ID: 109317

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rurprider on 2011-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Long and loose

Fun and exciting climbing on pockets and knobs. No less than three medium-sized knobs came off in Jeffrey's hand on lead. Really hard to see the leader while belaying in the narrow canyon with the tree limbs overhead.

Added: 2011-07-14