Aenea is located on the south side of the Chicken or Cave Rock, on the left side of the slab. Aenea climbs through the break in the roof that bisects the lower portion of what has been referred to as Hyperion Slab.
Work up the band of cobbles past two widely spaced bolts. Undercling and reach right to clip a high 3rd bolt. Difficulties soon ease and a 4th bolt is passed. The small roof is passed on the left side to reach the anchors.
Two bolt anchor with screw links (80ft)
Submitted by: rurprider on 2011-04-09
Last Modified: 2011-04-11
Route ID: 108328
This is a very height dependent rating. My wife and I are both 5'8" tall and the crux of this route was very hard for both of us. We both had to basically dyno this to get past the crux, which is a bit precarious as the feet for these dyno are a little bit crumbly. Normally we don't even sneeze at something rated 5.8 but the 3rd bolt and the left hand pocket that allows you to clear the roof completely are really stretched out for "shorter" climbers.
While we enjoyed the climbing and moves on Aenea the 3rd clip proved difficult as it was just beyond a comfortable reach with my height of 6' 00." The lower moves are fun, but not memorable. However, the contortions required to reach and clip the 3rd bolt are memorable and could really stress a short leader. Underclinging with the left hand under the roof and levering the carabiner gate open against the hanger it was just possible to clip. The crux move is fun and the romp up the sparsely, but adequately protected face is fun.