go up the steep face left of the dihedral clipping the first 3 bolts, then traverse right around the arete and follow a jagged crack to the anchor chain links. can place gear in the crack or simply clip the line of bolts within arm's reach on the face right of the crack. clipping 2 or 3 out of these 4 bolts would make a total of 5 or 6 bolts to clip
Submitted by: baja_java on 2005-10-05
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Route ID: 70559
I did this as described in the guidebook. Only the moves up to and just past the first 2 bolts are interesting. Instead of climbing the lieback crack I traversed underneath it. The 3rd bolt I clipped was the one below the lieback crack, and the 4th is out on the face after turning the arete. Horrible rope drag here, so I climbed back and unclipped the 3rd bolt, then headed to the top.