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moroccan roll - 5.7

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
R
5
trad
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Start this popular route 100' right of route 17, where the sloping base of the dome levels out. Scramble to a small oak growing at the far left end of a jagged flake/ledge. Pitch1: Face-climb to a short crack, climb it, then ascent 5.7 friction up left to a pair of belay bolts. Pitch2: Jam a short 5.7 finger crack (BS..crack is too small), then friction up to a bolt. Angle up right, then head up left to belay bolts. Pitch3: Face-climb up right to a left-leaning crack, climb it, then friction up right and climb the left-hand of two parallel, curved cracks. Ascend a short 5.5 face to a belay ledge. Pitch4: Traverse up right to a prominent dike, follow it up left until above the belay ledge, then face climb up to a 2-bolt belay shared with "right of the groove" route. Pitch5: Climb easy slabs to the summit wall and walk off left. Take pro to 1 1/4". Personal note - this is the easiest climb I know of here. I highly suggest you get serious beta before accidentally finding yourself on a 5.9+ R or X rated climb.

Submitted by: N_Oo_B on 2007-07-09
Views: 1063
Route ID: 86963

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Flyboy109 on 2012-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A great climb!

I agree with the description. The approach is difficult to find and access down the 3rd/4th class gully is loose. We had a party of 5 and thought the gully decent would be much faster than rapping in with a large party, and it probably was, but it wouldn't be my first choice next time. Now that i am familiar with the top of the dome, and the rap station, I will rap to the bottom next time. The rock is solid in most places, but since it is infrequently traveled, some parts have loose granules that make friction moves delicate, especially when you're run out 50-100 feet.. Also some of the flakes that can accept pro, may break off if you actually fall. Case in point....don't fall, don't get off route. Pro is way runout, so be comfortable with 50-100 foot runouts. All in all, this place has a remote alpine feel and is classic dome/slab style climbing. I recommend it, if this is what your looking for.

Added: 2012-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: N_Oo_B on 2007-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars moroccan roll

Runout, super exposed feeling (coming from a sport climber..)

Pitch 4 has 1 piece of pro, and about a 60-75foot runout traverse. Luckily it's not difficult.

Added: 2007-07-09