Average Rating : 4.43 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Cams from .25-3''
Obvious crack! First pitch is 5.7 with a short runnout off the ground. Could do the route in two pitches but a great stance is found around 100' up. The second pitch has an off-with section which can be negotiated by face climbing, 5.8. The last pitch is short (50-60 ft), 5.5. Great summit!
Rap the route. There are great places to set slings on the way down. 2 raps
Submitted by: keithspernak on 2007-05-23
Route ID: 85996
Beautiful, fun climb with lots of fun moves, only a few of which are 5.8. First belay station has two sketchy rusty bolts and one okay looking bolt. I had a lot of trouble with the offwidth before I finally figured out I could skirt it on the right by traversing onto the other climb and then back to the ledge. The traverse is exposed, but I found moving laterally on small holds easier than offwidth climbing. Our guidebooks didn't point out the third pitch and top out, so I stopped at the ledge with the horn and rapped down from there. The view from there was pretty amazing, but next time I will definitely plan to go to the top.
Great Climb! Wish it was a lot longer! Solid rock. To descend, rap the route in 3 rappels that are full value with a 60m rope. There are anchors at the top of all three 100' pitches. careful of the rope getting stuck after the 1st rappel! fun offwidth, worth a repeat!
We didn't top out because the guide we had said that we would have to rap off of a single bolt if we did. We're smart so we didn't. We stopped by the horn right after the offwidth. The offwidth, by the way, was harder than the supposed crux in the first 15 feet of the climb... course, we suck at offwidths, but, still.
Bolt anchor on the top of first pitch is two old 1/4 inchers and one newer (but rusted) bolt.
I wish we had topped out. What is the rap back down the route like from the summit?