Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Rick and Helen Schull
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
First 25 feet, gear to 2.5", 5 bolts above, 2 bolt anchor.
A lot of options. Face climb, or start in cave and chimney to stem to face. Joins Natural Light route on third bolt. Easy to toprope after Natural Light--You need some 10 ft runners to get over edge. Watch edges on all parts of the crag--some are sharp. Cave below is great place to keep food and beverages cool, even on a hot day.
Submitted by: Ebird on 2009-07-09
Route ID: 100776
I didn't get to lead it since we were short on time, but I gathered that the enough of the rock would be plenty good enough for trad gear. The route has great hand jams, and infinite foot holds. You can do the route with lots of stemming to make it easier, or keep your feet in the crack too for a harder variation. I also found a no hand rest knee-bar halfway up. Cool!!!
Jeez, Chimneyed a few feet, stemmed, liebacked, sidepull, underclinged it--a lot of diverse climbing for 25-30 ft! Intersects Natural Light on left below the crack or you can try to pull the small roof. I climbed Natural Light first and set a toprope with 10 ft. runners. Although the rock is super hard, it is also brittle--so I wasn't too keen leading it with pro. Also, many of the flakes can be super sharp.