Regular nuts and .2-3" cams.
Offset brassies and offset cams
The North Face route has been neglected by many climbers because of it's somewhat inconvenient access and "R" rating. There are three easily confusable starts, the route proper starts on a in the center of the north face on the obvious crack system. The route continues up this crack until a short headwall (crux) with no protection to prevent you from decking onto the slab with 5-10' of slack. It then traverses right slightly where you will want to belay. For the second pitch, follow the dihedral features up to the high point on the wall.
The guide book says three pitches, which would be great for having less rope drag on the run out crux, but the belay options are not the best.
Submitted by: evanwish on 2014-05-10
Route ID: 115023
I led this again and my follower believed it to be 5.9 at the crux, either way, there's serious risk a the crux. The first few holds off the ground were chalked up so it looks like someone's given it a try. cool!
I led this route again yesterday morning. The first 20 feet were soaked and slippery this time. Scary! Luckily you can get one solid piece 15 feet up if you have a small offset cam, or a .75 if you wait till after the first crux. Then my second accidentally dropped a basketball size block near the top of the 5.4 slab. I guess I missed a block when I was cleaning the route on top rope last time. Also, I'm curious if someone can weigh in on the history of this route.
There aren't many routes this tall around here, and this one is a Classic! Now that the route is finally dry, I rapped down and removed all the teetering blocks and sharp flakes and it is far safer now with no longer the risk of your rope dislodging rocks, so now as long as the rock is dry, have at it!
As far as gear, I highly recommend small brass offset nuts and a few small offset cams for the mid section of the route. With these the run-out section is manageable. However, either way, if you fall on the crux, you will break an ankle on the slab below.
ps: I'm down to do it again, PM me if you need a partner.