This is the first bolted route you will see from the hike in trail, before you get to Hole In the Wall. Or if you're rapping in, it is obviously the second, past the first large set of chains around tree that lead to Hole In the Wall. Follow bolt line, first couple bolts easy face climbing to shelf/ (anchor?). Then follow harder 5.9 climbing along bolt line to second anchor, or run it out to the top. Over abundance of bolts (every 5-6 feet), either bring over a dozen draws, or skip bolts. Originally created as a bolt ladder for Aid practice / big wall training.
Rappel, or hike down main trail to rest of sport climbing sections.
Submitted by: bobbo529 on 2009-08-07
Last Modified: 2012-06-14
Route ID: 101217
This route is becoming more popular and has seen more ascents as Redding's climbing scene has grown. I would like to get on it again and Redpoint it in a single pitch push. It started as an aid route, but should be a fun, free, long SINGLE pitch limestone slab. A 70m rope with alpine draws should do the trick to reduce any rope drag. Once I try it, I'll let you all know.
IF you dislike your belayer and want to throw dictionary size chunks of rock at their head.... IF you need the extra thrill of wondering whether every hold will crumble or pop off before you can clip the next bolt.... IF you hate using your feet anyways... IF you are just too lazy to walk 20 feet over and climb Hole in the Wall... then you should climb Sunshine route! Otherwise pass on this one. By the time it gets cleaned up to solid holds it will be a 5.13. Seriously though, pitch 1 is somewhat fun and fine (though still crumbly), probably more like a 5.10a at this point. Pitch two is very scary and I fell and hung a lot, ended up traversing over and bypassing some bolts over a bulge with no features.
Put route up from ground on lead. What a chore. All bolts by hand drill. Initially set up as training site for solo aid climbing. Sunshine has evolved since then to be a fun sport lead. Try the route as A0 and do it under 10 min. Thats my best!
First pitch is an easy mix of crack and face climbing at the 5.9 level. Second pitch hardly has any feet, and we popped a seemly pretty crucial jug at about the 4th clip that made it a lot harder (5.10 c/d) we didn't want to really push it since a fall would have = nice scrape down the face.
Still a sick climb, just a tad above my leading level. Kick as view at belay bolts of Burney and into Lassen.