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Quarryman - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
at least 24 bolts
170
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

I think this is the longest route at the quarry. It ends at the top of the cliff. There are two intermediary anchors, but the whole thing can be led in a single pitch. After pulling through a low bouldery crux, you get a nice rest before an interesting fingercrack crux, followed by lots of bulges (low 11 climbing), until you come to a dyno 12b crux at 155 feet! A monumental quarry climb, which is well worth doing.

Descent Options:

rappel using two sets of intermediary anchors.

Submitted by: todd_climberinla on 2008-12-25
Views: 1404
Route ID: 97442

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route, painful start.

Pop up to the first clip and move left. Series of painful crimps to a nice jug rest at I think fourth bolt if I recall. Pretty chill from then on until you get to the second crux near the top (lots of 10 and 11 moves). Great endurance play. One of the better mid-range 12s at the quarry.

Added: 2013-02-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Sirus on 2012-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Will be back!

This is a great route! The bottom crux is maybe 11b or something, but very doable and fun. The rest is pretty mellow until you get slapped by the crux just below the top. I'll be coming back once I'm working on 12's!

Note: Be careful when coming off of the route, as it's too long for most ropes. I have a 70m rope. With that, my partner led up, set up a belay, I followed. He had to rap twice to get down.

Added: 2012-12-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: snoopy138 on 2012-12-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars rp to first set of anchors

fell at move at the top. upper section is not really worth doing more than once -- a lot of mediocre climbing and a hassle to get down.

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: tjung514 on 2011-12-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Went

To first set of anchors. Felt 11.dish

Added: 2011-12-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I am not yet a Quarryman

Had a hard time with the crux - it seems super-reachy to the left. Some of the moves are easier if one hand-jams a horizonal crack instead of yarding on not-so-great-hold ledge edge.

Added: 2009-03-09