Happy to bag the redpoint today. I started working this route because the guidebook calls it 12a/b - was thinking of it as an entry-level 12b. But, unfortunately, I am told that indeed this route is not in the least a 12b - merely a 12a. Interestingly, I also told this route is actually more difficult for tall people, which is awesome - we need more of these! One more thing - the last bolt is difficult to clip until I get good feet, when it is at my knees - it would be nice if one could clip a bolt on the lip right before starting the crux.
Guidebook calls this 12a/b - I suppose it seems like either a hard 12a or easy 12b to me. There is alot of interesting climbing up to the final roof (crux). I've gotten it with one fall before - and now think I've got the (tricky) crux footwork sequence worked out - so hopefully the redpoint will be coming soon. BTW, the crux bolt is hard to clip until its at one's knees - would be nice if it could be clipped before one starts the crux.
Fairly mellow until you get to the roof. Found a easier sequence at roof using a right gaston. Skips a terrible three finger crimp. After that you need to hang on and punch it to the anchors on continous crimps. Seems like the crux is now after roof to just finish the climb!