This route now starts at the ground. Previously it was an extension to "The Sweetest Thing". After the rockfall that destroyed "Sweetest Thing", the line was re-established with the same upper part, but new lower part that starts at ground level. Consensus seems to be its a 5.12b. The primary crux is in the lower-half, and higher up there is a subcrux - probably 12a. Depending one's height/reach, there may be a third crux near the top. 60m rope is fine to lead and be lowered to the ground.
Submitted by: gregory_huey on 2009-05-11
Last Modified: 2010-10-04
Route ID: 98739
Didn't feel all that special or strong or psyched when I started it today, but this was my third run up the route and I bagged the redpoint. As this is my first 12a redpoint ever, I'm pretty happy - post-climbing pizza was on me.
Maybe 12b or 12a. Guidebook addendum claims 12b. Seemed 12ish for only about one or two moves on each of two cruxes. The upper crux is most definitely height-dependent (maybe 12a for me but sub-12 if you have a longer reach). Took me a couple of tries to figure it out. Definitely seemed significantly easier than "The Sweetest Thing".