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Stranger Than Friction - 5.12b

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
18 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

This route now starts at the ground. Previously it was an extension to "The Sweetest Thing". After the rockfall that destroyed "Sweetest Thing", the line was re-established with the same upper part, but new lower part that starts at ground level. Consensus seems to be its a 5.12b. The primary crux is in the lower-half, and higher up there is a subcrux - probably 12a. Depending one's height/reach, there may be a third crux near the top. 60m rope is fine to lead and be lowered to the ground.

Descent Options:

Rap

Submitted by: gregory_huey on 2009-05-11
Last Modified: 2010-10-04
Views: 1009
Route ID: 98739

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Working the new route

Now that a new route has gone up here will probably start working it again.

Added: 2010-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Reaganchung on 2009-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars tricky

tricky upper section but not pumpy. Kinda weird. More like 12a.

Added: 2009-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First 12 redpoint ever

Didn't feel all that special or strong or psyched when I started it today, but this was my third run up the route and I bagged the redpoint. As this is my first 12a redpoint ever, I'm pretty happy - post-climbing pizza was on me.

Added: 2009-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route

Maybe 12b or 12a. Guidebook addendum claims 12b. Seemed 12ish for only about one or two moves on each of two cruxes. The upper crux is most definitely height-dependent (maybe 12a for me but sub-12 if you have a longer reach). Took me a couple of tries to figure it out. Definitely seemed significantly easier than "The Sweetest Thing".

Added: 2009-04-06