Technicolor Tango - 5.12c

didn't expect to bag the RP when starting up today - but Steve's beta on two good rest locations made a very big difference - thanks Steve. I had thought that the RP on this route would have to wait until I got alot more stamina. I think the middle crux - the part that is supposed to be 12c - is more of a technique crux than a brute power or stamina crux. Thus, it seems hard at first and feels easier as one does is more. I would say its definitely not a soft 12c as an onsight grade. Was thinking this was my lucky day until buying groceries on the way home and it turns out Pasadena has made the RETARDED move of banning plastic bags - penalizing those who recycle along with those who don't.

Fantanstic route. Maybe a little soft, as there are MANY rests, and especially before each hard part. The bottom is a little sketchy though.

Also note: the large undercling flake beneath the last bolt is loose. There is no way to avoid using it, but beware it has been glued and is now cracked through the glue. There are no bolts on the flake, but it would be a BIG piece of rock if it were to come off.

The last hold/holds broke off. The hardest move of the route is now a powerful heelhook past the last bolt reaching to small nearly invisible handholds. I think the route would have been easy for the grade if it weren't for this. Now I feel that it's 12c.

Slabby thin section down low, power section in center, and crimpy long throw near the top section. Helps a lot if you have a good ape-index. Obviously, I don't.

The no-hands rests are nice. Especially if your endurance is questionable.