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Balrog - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Sport)
G
9 draws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Starts in a bush around the middle of the Roof Area. Gains a slippery slab after the first clip. Increasingly difficult climbing with a few good rests leads to a climactic and memorable crux. Ring anchors to lower off.

Submitted by: crackmd on 2006-07-10
Last Modified: 2011-09-07
Views: 1016
Route ID: 78044

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b V0 WI1 A0 M1 F
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2011-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars At last, the Balrog is defeated

"Those that looked up from afar thought that the mountain was crowned with storm. Thunder they heard, and lightning, they said, smote upon Celebdil, and leaped back broken into tongues of fire. Is not that enough? A great smoke rose about us, vapour and steam. Ice fell like rain. I threw down my enemy, and he fell from the high place and broke the mountain-side where he smote it in his ruin. Then darkness took me; and I strayed out of thought and time, and I wandered far on roads that I will not tell."

Maybe that last part is how Lukasz and I managed to forget those two draws on the anchor of Nostalgia.

Well, darn it, now I have to find a new Quarry project - and I hope it won't take the better part of a year to send this time.


Added: 2011-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: justinbeitler on 2011-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I shall return

I've got my eye on you

Added: 2011-02-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sshiflett on 2010-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic!!!!!!

Probably the best 12b at the quarry. Much more sustained than most others at the grade. Unlike most routes here, balrog has one big rest, but it's so early in the climb that it's almost worthless. Don't cheat by going right before the last bolt.

Added: 2010-11-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2010-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Balrog

crux section is fairly sustained for the top third of the climb.

Added: 2010-03-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Reaganchung on 2009-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun route.

Progressively harder. Funky mantle down low.

Added: 2009-05-15

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