Starts below the right aspect of the roof where the ground starts heading upwards and right. Negotiates a powerful roof then moves into nebulous, insecure climbing to the anchor. Quality! You have to really want it to pull the moves through the roof.
Submitted by: crackmd on 2006-05-14
Route ID: 76702
One of the best climbs at the Quaarry. One distinct crux at the roof. A friend altered the climb by ripping off a key hold. What remains is a little right hand crimp. Still works but a little more balancy now with a long left hand extension.
Missed the crimp on the crux throw on the onsight go. Sent next try. Moderate climbing to a good rest before a large bulge. A cruxy boulder problem and dynamic move to a small crimp before some insecure slab fun! Worth doing!
Finally got out here on a good weather day AND whilst not horrifically hungover. I got it on our first lead of the day... glad to have it done with. I personally liked the 1st crux which is slightly awkward/contortionist. 2nd crux is the buisnass... small crimpy pull over a roof/bulge thing. The top keeps the blood flowing...