Spectacular and varied route with multiple cruxes. Starts left of Leviathan. Dirty start leads to crimpy crux through a bulge. Easier climbing to a long reach/dyno move. Milk the no-hands rest before launching into the last crux section.
Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-08-15
Last Modified: 2010-02-04
Route ID: 68895
Took awhile to get this one, was always too burned out by the time I hit the final crux. Take the rests that make themselves available. Most of the loose stuff has come clean. The key to the top is locking in the hand jam before you move up. Being over 5'10" helps.
I remember back when I first started climbing at the Quarry - this was one of the first 12s I TR-ed (easy to set a TR from Nostalgia). The crux of this route seemed darn hard and out of my ability to lead for a long time. Now that I've bagged the redpoint , it gives me a nice sense of progress.
Steve and I both got the redpoint for the first time today.
Beware, there are some loose chunks on this route, but they are not hard to avoid.
Getting established in the finger crack at the top is super-easy if one hand-jams the horizontal, yards, and reaches high.