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Forbidden Fruit - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Louie Anderson
Rock
17 bolts!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 1.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Starts in a "harder than it looks" dihedral off a ledge. Then sustained climbing up a left-facing flake system for a long ways. Good rest before the crux right at the finish. Crack technique is quite valuable on this pitch. There is a midway anchor so one can descend via 2 single-rope rappels.

Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-07-10
Views: 835
Route ID: 67938

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-04-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Permitted Fruit

This redpoint is the second of the triptych I was assigned (first was Raging Raptor, next shall be Megalomania) by Brent & Alex. While working this project, a large flake came off near bolt 7. The route still goes fine - same grade - without this hold. I sent it today while the detached flake lies on the ledge at the top of the dihedral. I'll be happy to assist any way I can with the repair - but the repair really is not needed - currently the route is just a little more sustained in that section. Anyway, its a really, really great route.

I think the redpoint crux is not so much getting to the anchors as actually clipping them.

Added: 2010-04-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The forbidden fruit is always the sweetest

Took a couple of falls, but didn't have too much trouble until the end. I think the crux is actually getting to and clipping the anchors. Sweet, sweet route. Beware of the loose flake near the 7th bolt. Alex broke off the bottom half, and the rest slides a bit when I (gently) sidepull it. Note also that a 70m rope is not long enough to lead this route to the end and then be lowered off completely - one has to use the intermediate anchors.

Lately when I've been belaying for or climbing this route, a bird of prey - perhaps a raptor or falcon - has been swooping at the climber. Perhaps he/she is protecting a nearby nest?


Added: 2010-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Reaganchung on 2009-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars awesome route

tricky dihedral will have you searching for holds. then full on laybacks on smears. fun stuff.

Added: 2009-02-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 2005-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Basically a crack climb with a face crux at the finish. Classic!

Witnessed by: Stein Lundby, Louie Anderson
Added: 2005-07-10