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Taboo - 5.12c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
Bolts for the first pitch, then an assortment from pretty thin to 1 1/2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


Pick your warmup to this one, the easiest being Original Sin then stop at the two bolt anchor. The beautiful crack/corner system to the right of The Saint is the objective. It starts out easy, and slowly builds until you're desperately stemming and jamming out the overhanging corner above your gear. It's possibly hard for the grade. I love that this route is what the area is named after, and it's one of the last to be added to since it's trad.

Descent Options:

Two rappels, can be done with a 50m rope.

Submitted by: bandycoot on 2009-03-09
Last Modified: 2012-06-26
Views: 950
Route ID: 90887

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tradding at the Quarry

A fine trad pitch with fairly easy access at a local crag. The boulder problem crux is pretty punchy, and for the redpoint I opted for trusting the gray Metolius instead of trying to waste energy placing yet another piece at the under cling. This climb protects well and is not PG-13 or R by any means.

Added: 2012-06-25

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: butofcourse on 2007-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A good trad climb at a sport crag

Who would want to climb a 2nd pitch trad route at a sport crag? I'm glad I did -- it's really fun.

I accidentally pulled some fixed nuts out, but it protects fine with cams alone.
Also, the somewhat run-out end offers a clean fall (I can attest).

Added: 2008-01-11

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2007-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finally!

I've wanted to do this thing for a while and Stein decided to go with me! After he took a few 15+' whips and proved that the falls could be safe on the 0 TCU I sent it. It was my 2nd try. Stein followed shortly thereafter with his RP. :)

Added: 2007-11-23