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Insomnia - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock (Trad)
0.4" to 2.5", bolted rap anchor.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


One of the best single-pitch crack in CA, and maybe in the universe. Wedge in, embrace the grovel, and squirm up a slanted squeeze chimney to get up to a low ledge. Look up to see beautiful splitter. Immerse gear and self into splitter hand crack that quickly thins to off-fingers, maneuvering up past a flake that at first makes for a squeeze chimney and then steadily dwindles in flange size to become more of a flake with positive lip, prompting athleticism and/or desperation before some well-earned rest stances. Then lean out onto a steep thin hand crack veering up and left to reach a high ledge with a few more easy finishing moves to top out. Long slings needed if intending to get lowered first to belay second from the ground.

Descent Options:


Submitted by: tigerbythetail on 2009-08-07
Views: 1813
Route ID: 27380

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8 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2011-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing line

Recommend cool weather for this one, the few face holds for feet can get pretty slick in the heat. Such an amazing climb that is a must-do if you hit up Suicide.

Added: 2011-05-09

  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: snowey on 2011-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars so good

Sent it on second go of the day. Third lead attempt total

toproped this a long time ago and basically fell up it. This time I only fell once at the fist crux on lead.
Brought way too much gear.

Next time bring:
3 0.75
3 1 (only placed one last time)
3 2
1 0.5
1 orange tcu
2 big nuts
lots of slings
(maybe extra 0.5)

Added: 2009-06-05

  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ibjamin on 2007-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Never fails...

This route never fails to make my muscles burn. Never have been able to lead this route 100% successfully, but I have been on it endlessly...

Added: 2007-08-19

Flash Flash ascent by: bandycoot on 2005-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Would be better, but it's just so damn awkward! Not that it's not good though! Pro:

3 x .5 camalot
2 x .75 - 2 camalots

Long cordelette if you want to TR.

Witnessed by: poorboy44
Added: 2005-06-05

Onsight Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 2004-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This crack rocks! Great variety with aesthetic chimneying in a flare, exciting laybacking of a flake and amazing handjamming in a left leaning crack to finish. Physical the entire way up. Protection is easy to place and solid. A very memorable experience. I recommend this route highly.

Witnessed by: Elyse Brandt
Added: 2004-07-20

... Read all 8 ascent notes