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The Long Climb - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (33)
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to 3.5" (a #4 Camalot isn't a bad idea)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.30/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.70/5

Description:

So at the far right side of the NW Recess are two parallel cracks. This climb takes the right one for 150' then switches to the left one instead of going straight up. Most parties just climb the left one the whole way up which means starting on Wong Climb (super 5.8 fingers-hands) and just continuing up The Long Climb's "Mummy Crack". FA by the great Royal Robbins and Don Wilson in 1952.

Submitted by: addiroids on 2002-03-28
Views: 2091
Route ID: 14984

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33 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: claytonaugust on 2011-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Long, indeed.

P1 of Wong Climb, then Mummy Crack, linked up 3&4, 5&6. Really fun climb, with some heinous moments, watch out for the "downward jutting block" AKA Death Pizza at the top.


I'll second the suggestion of bringing a #4 Camalot along, and don't forget the micro nuts for the top!

Added: 2011-08-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Classic

Some very classic pitches. Did a direct variation instead of the 6R, that was maybe 8. Into several more 8 finger crack and tips dihedral at the top. Also had a 7R section above the 8 finger crack.

Added: 2011-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrea37 on 2011-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Long Climb

Did the original start. Wong start looks better. Second pitch was fun-great offwidth. Couple of interesting moves on p3 too. I think we got off route (again) for the last pitch. Couldn't tell you what we did but it was heart thumping.
Pretty busy route.

Added: 2011-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A good adventure

up the rock, especially when the topo steers you into some harder terrain towards the top. Linked it into 4 pitches and did some interesting variations between this climb and WhoDunit. Did the "real" start as well which isn't bad, but not preferable.

Added: 2011-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: henrytwin_m on 2010-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First climb in Thaquitz in 7 years

Climbed with Bill Davis and Tom Keefer.

Added: 2011-07-03

... Read all 33 ascent notes