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The Swallow - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Set of stoppers, set of cams. Fixed pin and chock stones in chimney.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Follows crack system between Whodunit and Consolation, except for detour to the left on second pitch, to avoid steep corner (on the Gulp route). Strenuous squeeze chimney follows and fun, steep corners to belay at base of steep, short headwall with crack. This used to be rated 5.8, now .10a. Join Whodunit to exit. Burly climbing.

Submitted by: jv on 2003-09-26
Views: 1053
Route ID: 41073

7 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: steple on 2009-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars OW

Reminded me of this quote: "I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing difficulty, as follows: 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.11-, 5.11b, 5.11, 5.11c, 5.9 squeeze, 5.11+, 5.10 OW, 5.12a, 5.11d" Brutus of Wyde. So if this is 5.8 squeeze on the second pitch, I do not want to know what 5.9 squeeze is...

Did it in 4 long pitches (70m, 60m, 70m, 70m).
Took a fall on the 5.9 move on p3.

Added: 2011-07-08

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars .

kinda dirty.

Added: 2011-06-25

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: illusiondweller on 1983-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic!

That head wall that is in question was a bit perplexing for 5.8 but I can recall once I figured out the short face sequence it put you back into a easier layback in a corner. Don't feel it was 5.10 though.

Added: 2009-05-12

Red Point Red Point ascent by: tcantor333 on 2003-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

How come they only want me to come along for the Off Widths? Must be true love. Great route with a great OW section. Tricky face moves which Tony lead beautifully.

Witnessed by: rockratg (Tony Grice)
Added: 2003-06-19

Onsight Onsight ascent by: rrradam on 2002-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2002-09-16

... Read all 7 ascent notes