The recorded first ascent party got to a piton and said, "Whodunit??" This is a stellar right facing dihedral in the Northwest Recess area. Get there early because this one is a classic. The crux 3rd pitch is hard 5.9 jamming/laybacking out of the chimney, but safe if you have some small Stoppers. On this route you top out closest to the summit of Tahquitz than any other route. The last 4 pitches (7 total) are nice 5.8 and below and nothing to worry about.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2007-09-06
Route ID: 5118
Dis this route in 5.10 approach shoes and (except for the top of the first pitch) I would say it made much of the climbing easier. Primarily liebacks, jugs, and off hands/width climbing which means the larger sticky shoes helped.
Super fun route. I thought the crux was the chimney exit, but it wasn't that bad, I placed the #4 camalot there because I had it, but I had a bomber nut in 2 feet below it and wouldn't have felt bad if I didn't have the #4. As for the supposed 5.9 slab moves on the first pitch, I'll just say that I've climbed 5.7 slab that was harder than anything on the first pitch.
The first pitch (nothing but slab) was the crux for me. Every pitch thereafter was awesome. Terrific hand jams and fun chimney. The move out of the chimney was a bit tricky, but everything else was cruiser. We linked a lot of the higher pitches together (did it in 5 rather than 8).