Great historical route. Done in 1937 with sneakers and a manila rope. Start on Open Book, then after clipping the 2 pins before OB gets more vertical, head right 10' on some face to the big 6" crack. Climb this (mostly face around the crack) and belay at a nice ledge (#2 camalot in a blown out pin scar, yellow alien and a large nut). Climb up 20' clip a pin and climb the solution pockets to the right (5.8R but not bad at all) to a crack. Step down and right to a bolted belay ledge above the Green Arch (165' to ground) or continue up to the belay at the top of Open Book (5.5 face). Continue to top.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2003-08-21
Route ID: 39379
This is a great one not to be missed. Very well defined, certifiably scary, crux on P1 moving across into the chimney. P2 is the "R" pitch, but I felt much better on this than P1. The run out was not nearly as bad as I had thought it might be. There is a big round feature near the broken bolt that is borderline sling-able. Fun climbing. Five stars on this ascent.