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Mechanic's Route - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.60/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

Great historical route. Done in 1937 with sneakers and a manila rope. Start on Open Book, then after clipping the 2 pins before OB gets more vertical, head right 10' on some face to the big 6" crack. Climb this (mostly face around the crack) and belay at a nice ledge (#2 camalot in a blown out pin scar, yellow alien and a large nut). Climb up 20' clip a pin and climb the solution pockets to the right (5.8R but not bad at all) to a crack. Step down and right to a bolted belay ledge above the Green Arch (165' to ground) or continue up to the belay at the top of Open Book (5.5 face). Continue to top.

Submitted by: addiroids on 2003-08-21
Views: 1223
Route ID: 39379

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17 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 1991-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very nice route

go for it

Added: 2010-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RentATommyG on 2009-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun route.

This is a great one not to be missed. Very well defined, certifiably scary, crux on P1 moving across into the chimney. P2 is the "R" pitch, but I felt much better on this than P1. The run out was not nearly as bad as I had thought it might be. There is a big round feature near the broken bolt that is borderline sling-able. Fun climbing. Five stars on this ascent.

Added: 2009-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rudder on 1992-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars put up a direct start

went up with Mike first, then Matt K the second time... the second time did a direct start which I rated at 10d.

Added: 2008-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leahb on 2007-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun but runout

Quite a few runout sections, but the climbing is straightforward

Added: 2008-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: behavens on 2007-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice route

I felt just like Royal Robbins...except safe.

Added: 2008-03-02

... Read all 17 ascent notes