This is the obvious groove just left and up of Lunch Rock. P1: The first chimney tops out onto big ledge 40' up. P2: Continue up corner cracks, passing a juggy vertical face section, to reach another ledge. There's a tree with rap slings (100') to climber's left. Further to climber's right, this is also the ledge where the first pitch of Human Fright tops out. Many link Pitches 1 and 2, especially when there's a line on this popular route. P3: Continue up corner cracks to big ledge with big tree. P4: Continue up corner cracks to Lunch Ledge. Numerous ledges thereabouts to belay from, if crowded. Pitches 3 and 4 are also linkable. P5: Meander up via ledges and numberous left- and right-slanting cracks. Place pro as to minimize rope drag. Optional belay at about halfway to the top, at a near-horizontal and slightly diagonal crack that veers out to the left, thinning and petering out at a bush. Two popular topouts from this near-horizonal crack. One is to go up a thin corner crack that goes from fingers to thinner than tips. Some find this harder than rated, but it is pretty low-angled. The other way is to traverse further left along the near-horizontal crack to where it thins out at a bush, then go up runout slab protected by a single solid bolt (that has replaced the original rusty scrap). All the way from Lunch Ledge to the top is about 150', and leader and belayer will be out of sight of each other.
Scramble further up to find friction descent down south side, which will lead to walking trail that will wrap down and around the base of routes. Don't try to rap from trees near friction descent, as rap with one rope will not get you down to the walking
Submitted by: baja_java on 2007-08-02
Last Modified: 2012-08-27
Route ID: 5111
1st pitch of Human fright. Good route that is a little inobvious on the last pitch. The overhang pitch is well protected with finger to hand sized cams. The bolted slab finish will certainly give a 5.5 leader something to think about.