Excellent route that starts about 25 feet right of the obvious corner system Human Fright. A few small pro placements get you to the first bolt which is the technical crux palming up a blunt corner. A couple more crux sections will utilize most of your slab/face climbing skills. Not runout but bring a cool head on this one. Highly recommended!
Submitted by: crackmd on 2004-10-03
Route ID: 57643
Sustained 10d climbing all the way up with four distinct cruxes, some of them coming 10-15 above protection. Not quite R rated but close. The book says there is a .75 placement near one of the cruxes which does not exist. I used a green alien, yellow BD, green c3, one micro stopper and three quickdraws for the 100-120 feet of climbing. I would not want to fall on this one.
Well, maybe. It's easier to get the good edge before the first bolt, but harder for us to mantle. If you don't own any really small cams, this becomes a much scarier climb--micronuts just don't cut it here.