The arete to the left of Open Book. On the First Ascent (1976), Tobin Sorensen was so scared when he reached the only stance to drill (a sloping area on the arete) after 40' runout of continuous 5.10 palming, he broke into tears. After 1 hour of drilling and breaking the drill bit, he finally was able to move upward. Yes, this is during the time where routes were put up from the ground up. Read John Long's story at: http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/doc/Three_Little_Fish.txt
Submitted by: addiroids on 2007-07-11
Route ID: 14990
Best visual line at Tahquitz. It lived up to its reputation, but in an unexpected way. It was 5.11b the way I did it leaving the belay after the famous pitch. I hope that no one ever provides beta for this route. It deserves true onsight climbing.
Climbed with Lyle Hurd III after EdgeHogs and some other stuff. Simply one of the scariest leads I've seen in years - the top pitch was only mildly safer. Totally onsight with no beta and no chalk leading the way - hell no one ever climbs this thing! Great climbing and an awesome position. Solid 11a smearing - there's not a real hold in sight.