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The Edge (5.11a R) - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
G
thin to 2" and a lucky rabbit's foot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The arete to the left of Open Book. On the First Ascent (1976), Tobin Sorensen was so scared when he reached the only stance to drill (a sloping area on the arete) after 40' runout of continuous 5.10 palming, he broke into tears. After 1 hour of drilling and breaking the drill bit, he finally was able to move upward. Yes, this is during the time where routes were put up from the ground up. Read John Long's story at: http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/doc/Three_Little_Fish.txt

Submitted by: addiroids on 2007-07-11
Views: 1701
Route ID: 14990

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Jnclk on 2011-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars one of the best in Idyllwild

I had led the first pitch last year and rapped off.
Led both pitches this time.

This is as R as it gets.

Added: 2011-07-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dangleme on 2008-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow

I had no idea what I was climbing until I talked to a couple locals the next day. Probably wouldn't have climbed it had I known, but it was fun scaring myself.

Added: 2010-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spectacular climb. Perfection.

Best visual line at Tahquitz. It lived up to its reputation, but in an unexpected way. It was 5.11b the way I did it leaving the belay after the famous pitch. I hope that no one ever provides beta for this route. It deserves true onsight climbing.

Added: 2009-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leec on 2004-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Stunning & meaga scary lead!

Climbed with Lyle Hurd III after EdgeHogs and some other stuff. Simply one of the scariest leads I've seen in years - the top pitch was only mildly safer.
Totally onsight with no beta and no chalk leading the way - hell no one ever climbs this thing! Great climbing and an awesome position. Solid 11a smearing - there's not a real hold in sight.

Added: 2008-06-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: illusiondweller on 1990-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Outrageous!

Followed "Troy" without falls in the early 90's

Added: 2007-07-05

... Read all 6 ascent notes