From the finish of Dave's Deviation (ledge on The Trough).
Step left and then up into the steep crack system, all proves well though; the pro is great and the climbing is exhilarating and well held, belay at tree on the start of Upper Royal's Arch.
Submitted by: sowr on 2004-05-06
Route ID: 52433
Couple of climbs converge at the start of this one, so we got caught in a bit of traffic. I led this one (Doug did Dave's and Jam to get us to the start). Felt harder than 5.7--wasn't fast enough with my placements, got flamed and had to sit and rest before pulling the crux. We were supposed to finish up on Upper Royal's Arch but we got mixed up and I think we missed it. We went straight up and I don't recommend it!
We came up from Jam Crack, and wound up moving the belay up & to the left about 10-15ft, using the vertical crack right by the starting flake. Dave led P1, got 4 pieces in and slipped off, right at the crux, cuz he was flamed. Not good rests for placing gear. Then I went (on gear he placed). Looks like a pretty good lead. Must be quick on placements. Once you pull crux, can rest as long as you like! To me, this goes off harder than the 5.7 grade !