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The Vampire - 5.11a popular

Average Rating = 4.82/5 Average Rating : 4.82 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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Rock
Small nuts, and many cams to 3". Small hybrid aliens useful on P3.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.91/5
  Rock Quality 4.73/5
  Scenery 4.45/5
  Fun Factor 4.73/5

Description:

Yeah, that's right. The Vampire. One of Southern California's most famous hard routes. Originally 5.9 A3, it now goes free. FA by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick in 1959 with the FFA by John Long and others in 1973. Everyone does the direct start to the Bat Crack (10d), it's the natural and logical line. The mantle can be protected up and right with 1-3" gear and a long sling. 11a crimping starts P2 into moderate liebacking. For many folks the 10d/11a face/friction boulder problem (2 different solutions) on pitch 3 is the crux.

Submitted by: pbjosh on 2002-09-22
Views: 2437
Route ID: 14988

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25 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Greate route

Did this route with Lukasz. The crack is awesome, the slab is hard & obnoxious. Though easy, the finishing pitch is pretty cool (how often are you pulling overhangs on trad?). The pitch 3 crux seems run-out to me. Morning shade, afternoon sun. Had a good view of the unfortunate rockfall & aftermath on the Trough while on pitch 3.

Added: 2012-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-10-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars followed Lucas

got spanked on the first pitch crux, second pitch traverse (SWIIIING and a miss) and the third pitch face move. really, this climb is above me... but its fun to get drug up it :))

Had redemption afterwards on Sundance!

Added: 2011-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2011-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Vampire

Sent P1-P3.

Added: 2011-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Just did the 1st

pitch crack which is awesome until that friggin mantle. I have seen the mantle described as "energetic" but I think desperate is a more appropriate adjective. Knowing that this pitch is the tamest of them makes me anxious to connect with a slabmaster partner to try and bag the whole thing.

Added: 2011-07-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ilikerock13 on 2010-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars do it your way i did it mine!

http://pullharder.org/2010/09/11/anything-but-ordinary-full-moon-ascent-of-the-vampire/

Added: 2010-09-12

... Read all 25 ascent notes