Yeah, that's right. The Vampire. One of Southern California's most famous hard routes. Originally 5.9 A3, it now goes free. FA by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick in 1959 with the FFA by John Long and others in 1973.
Everyone does the direct start to the Bat Crack (10d), it's the natural and logical line. The mantle can be protected up and right with 1-3" gear and a long sling. 11a crimping starts P2 into moderate liebacking. For many folks the 10d/11a face/friction boulder problem (2 different solutions) on pitch 3 is the crux.
Submitted by: pbjosh on 2002-09-22
Route ID: 14988
Did this route with Lukasz. The crack is awesome, the slab is hard & obnoxious. Though easy, the finishing pitch is pretty cool (how often are you pulling overhangs on trad?). The pitch 3 crux seems run-out to me. Morning shade, afternoon sun. Had a good view of the unfortunate rockfall & aftermath on the Trough while on pitch 3.
pitch crack which is awesome until that friggin mantle. I have seen the mantle described as "energetic" but I think desperate is a more appropriate adjective. Knowing that this pitch is the tamest of them makes me anxious to connect with a slabmaster partner to try and bag the whole thing.