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Upper Royal's Arch - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Friends/wires full range to #4. Nut/tree belays.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Combining it with Dave's Deviation and Piton Pooper makes this combo one of the best long moderate routes at Taquitz, clean with almost no choss. From the tree on the right terminus of the arch, steeply up then across using the arch crack. Follow arch, then go left onto face, negotiate face (crux) then up again underneath arch, take the overlap on big flakes in a very cool and exposed position at the "keystone" of the arch. Up face/crack to belay. Very sweet.

Submitted by: sowr on 2004-05-06
Views: 794
Route ID: 52432

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ericfoltz on 2000-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lead

OS

Added: 2010-05-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 1992-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars loads of fun

go for it

Added: 2010-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2008-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars durp

durp

Added: 2008-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: esoteric1 on 2005-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2004-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

From the top of Piton Pooper, DEFINITELY don't do one pitch to the top of Upper Royal's Arch. It's only 195' but rope drag will harsh your mellow. Either belay at the optional belay marked on the topo or shift the belay to the pine tree at the start of the Arch (which is what I'd recommend). I thought the crux was the awkward gaston-like move with your right hand and right side sort of jammed in the crack, just two moves up from the pine tree. I found the slab traverse easy, certainly easier than P2 of Dave's Deviation.

Added: 2004-08-22

... Read all 7 ascent notes