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5.10 Start (variation) - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This is the obvious finger crack that runs up a slightly overhanging dihedral at the base of the Gutenberger wall. Use this start to get to the Grand Central Belay Station. The climb is very sustained and is much easier than it looks from afar. Look around, there's plenty of feet to stem on. One old bolt protects the crux.

Descent Options:

Rap off the grand central or finish off the wall (via other routes) and rap from the top.

Submitted by: evanwish on 2008-03-29
Last Modified: 2008-03-30
Views: 1808
Route ID: 92706

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2012-02-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars once is enough

I was expecting more of Guttemberg wall. The start on the direct variation was very nice. The rest of the climb was not very memorable. The view from Guttemberg wall is really nice though.

Added: 2012-06-27

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2008-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a "must do"

it can be led with nuts, tcu's, C3's, aliens, or whatever narrow head cam you have.
that's the thing though, the crack is VERY shallow....

the bolt isn't nesesary but clip it anyways..

the move over the lip is cool, very well protected.

Added: 2008-05-29