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Lux Lucis of Vallum - 5.10d

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Cams, .5-3 nuts, 1 set. and 10 quickdraws.
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This route starts in the large gully to the right of the main bulk of routes. The first pitch is not well protected but on easy ground. It climbs the crud gully up to a head wall where you sling a tree for a belay or continue left, traversing a small bulge to a small ledge. Form here you climb a short crack to gain access to the large ledge for a belay. Fixed anchors await. It is possible to climb the first pitch of "Fist full of rubbles" or "defector" (both 5.8) and continue another 15ft of easy climbing passing a bolt to the anchors, bypassing the first pitch gully. (Pitch 2) Move out right up a ramp and clip the bolt to protect the opening moves. Continue up the well protected dihedral (5.6-) to a small bulge (5.7) and on to the large ledge. Belay form fixed anchors. (Pitch 3) Only one way to go, and thats up. This pitch is now obvious to you that it is the business pitch. Leave your trad gear with the follower and take only your QD's. This pitch starts with difficult lieback moves on a steep wall with little feet. Search for hidden pockets, good edges, hand jams, fist jams a few arm bars and the occasional bucket. Once the crack turns right there's a short wide section which takes some difficult stemming and a few grunts to get past some flareing fingers to the good "thank god" jugs. From here the dificulty backs off and its an easy curise to the top where you sling a tree and belay your second.

Descent Options:

It is possible to rap from the top of the second pitch with a 50m rope. From the top it's easiest to walk around back to the base.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-06-05
Views: 988
Route ID: 72544

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2004-10-17 (View Climbing Log)

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Added: 2004-10-17