The Mosquito Coast is a very demanding area because of the highly polished nature of the granite. You have to have immaculate technique and superior strength to succeed here. Besides the cracks, there is a lot of bouldering. This isn't well covered in Cottrell's guide so I will outline a set of problems I like here. All of these were worked out in the 70s and 80s by a group of Placerville climbers: Bob Branscomb, Don Garrett (by far The Man here), Kim Treadaway, and Ron Vardanega. A good pad is necessary here as most of the landings are hardddd. See Will's guide and the notes I made on bouldering in the noted areas on this site.
I like to start in the Octopus' Gardens area, do the V0 travese back and forth from Octos Gardens to Golden Road a couple of times. Then the start to Her Cheeks, V0. Boulder the 5.10 start to Reluctant Elevation, drop off with care. Go to Susan Forever, do the V2 stemming grunt (sit start) to the chockstone on the lip, drop off with care (bad fall into river potential). Do the V1 traverse out of Susan Forever (sit start) to Straight Lines. Attempt the V2 run from Susan Forever (sit start) to Sickle Ledge, drop off with care (bad fall into river potential). Boulder the start of Bush Whack from sit position to the jug on the right, drop off. Do the right to left traverse from Mr. Mustard to Bush Whack (V1 to V3) and continue either to Straight Lines (V2) or up Bush Whack to the jug. Do Talk is Cheap (V1 or V2) to the jug of Bush Whack, drop off. Do the short no hands slab (5.9) on the south side of the small boulder below Mr. Mustard. Boulder the 5.9 mantel problem on the right side of a boulder under the trees, on the edge of the river bed, half way between Mr. Mustard and Ant Line. Do the three 5.9-5.10a face problems to the right of Ant Line.
The sun is very intense here in the summer so early morning or the evening is best time. Possible in the winter during mid day (some sun gets in there), though it can be icy and cold. Spring and Fall, again is morning or evening. This is a great place to do some fine bouldering that will demand better skills from you.
Submitted by: bob_54b on 2008-05-20
Route ID: 93843