Traverse around the boulder starting on the left and moving around right. Stay low around the boulder for the V9 version or use all the holds and jugs up high for the V7 version. Finish by pulling around the bulge with a pump back onto the low angle side.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-05-28
Route ID: 93958
One of the hardest problems I've done yet. Lots of failure was involved in getting this one. It's not the moves that are the killer, some of them are really hard, but it's the sustained length of the route that puts you down. It starts with about 15ft of a slow burn on jugs and quickly looses the feet to put all the gravity on your arms. As soon as you pull around the first corner it's full on. You immediately pull into several .12 moves that taper to .11+, another .12ish move and you get the first half ass rest after about 35ft of climbing. Now it's the crux on slopers, worse than bad feet and leaning (the wrong way) crimps. Throw for the jug, (way out there) a decent rest, then fire the 15+ ft of V4 with the last move pulling the bulgy, sloping, desperate corner with a serious pump. Hooyah!